I am a firm believer in creating well-crafted garments that are built to last – throwaway culture is a huge issue in our current society, and I wish to help enforce the idea that we should “buy less and wear more” by focusing on creating high-quality pieces with unique intricacies that tell a story and are functional and adaptable so as to maximise wearability.
The main inspiration for this collection came from the concert pianist Glenn Gould.
A prodigy and a genius, Gould was known for his many neuroses and eccentricities as much as for his playing. One of the most prominent of these was his extreme sensitivity to temperature – he was often seen playing in the recording studio wearing multiple heavy coats, scarves, and at least one pair of gloves at any time.
Working from this idea of layering I have explored elegant, timeless silhouettes based off both Gould’s wardrobe and my own, incorporating elements of functionality and modularity.
I also focused strongly on tailoring in this collection, using bespoke construction techniques and a rigorous process to establish the silhouettes. All of my fabrics are remnants or vintage/ damaged pieces and were sourced entirely from British mills, and I have strived to limit my use of synthetic materials as much as possible. I have also tried to minimise waste by collecting offcuts to use for creating accessories such as hats and bags.
I also took inspiration from the works of Gerhard Richter. In 1984, Richter painted on vinyl records of Gould’s performance of the “Goldberg Variations”. Gould often said that he wished for listeners to edit his recordings to suit their own tastes, and I found these paintings to be the most extreme response to this.
Using natural dyes on yarns and fabrics I have created random patterns, similar to Richter’s ‘blur’ paintings, as a way of introducing unpredictability as a contrast to the tailored pieces.
My work is influenced by classic menswear and bespoke tailoring. I am strongly opposed to ‘throwaway’ culture and fast fashion, and so in my work I strive to create pieces that will endure, are made from high quality natural materials, and that can be worn in numerous ways.